I had one of those surfs late yesterday, the type where everything goes right, when you seem to be in the spot for every good set wave, where you actually make a barrel and do a few good turns. That is what we all aim for ever time we paddle out, right?
The ocean is so random and luck has a hand in every surf you have but when it goes your way, it definitely puts a smile on your face. No wonder we are so addicted to this passion of finding and riding moving masses of liquid. There is definitely nothing in this world that comes remotely close.
It’s still pumping today folks - 5 feet of east swell, perfectly groomed by westerly winds. We have all been waiting for this time of year to roll around and it’s finally delivering the goods with back to back swells over the last month. Make the most it.
Time to get back into my wet wetsuit.