The winter weather of late has been absolutely amazing but the waves have been barely rideable the last few days, so it was a pleasant surprise this morning, to arrive at the beach and find 3 feet of south ground swell pouring into Bondi.
Surfers began jumping from of doorways and dark corners everywhere before first light. It looked like a stealth military invasion as the dark shapes, with boards under arms, swarmed down the hill and sprinted for the waters edge. It must have taken all of 15 minutes to crowd out the lineup.
Apart from the extreme wave sharing going down, where almost every wave had at least 3 riders, the peak in the corner looked fun and there were a few nice rights and lefts further towards middle as well.
It's funny how an increase in swell can instill such excitement inside a surfer, after only a few days of flatness and boredom. We have a term for that. It's called Frothing!
Billy
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