Dodging the flat and the rain for one day, I managed to sail on one of the most amazing places of the Atlantic Coast of France, the Bassin d'Arcachon.
Leaving from Cap Ferret, we sailed this old wooden lady around, using the high tide to access the Cabanes Tchanquées, a couple of houses in the middle of the water, 3km from any shore.
Wave wise, it's been flat. Everyone is desperate around here. Nothing has been on radar for weeks. Nothing. What's been on the radar though: rain and clouds. So today, the swell is back…with 20 knots of onshore winds, and rain. The locals' mood is pretty low, and so is the tourists' in need of sun.
Have you watched the final day of the Billabong Pro in Tahiti ? How amazing was that day ?!
Leaving the shore tomorrow. Next time I'll see the Ocean, it'll be in Bondi.
Have a great day.
After a few flat days, there has been a little tiny mini pulse of swell, here in the Basque Country.
Everyone was trying to get a couple after a (too) long period of swell drought. Everyone was hitching, frothing for a paddle.
But before one could get enough, even remotely, it was over already. Gone. Disappeared. vanished. Flat.
Have you seen the highlights of the Tahiti Pro ? The wave is offering one of the most amazing show, bringing together a mix of fear, excitement, crazy technical performance and great anticipation. Check it out in the coming days. I was talking this afternoon with Teahupo'o local WQS surfer/charger Steven Pierson, and from what he could read on the forecasts, he said it was going to be huge, probably too big to actually paddle. So, stay tuned !
After a week of radio silence out of range in the French mountains, and working in the background on the new Frothers, I'm back on the shore side of things, in the Basque Country.
It is Summer here, but honestly, the weather looks like a poor Autumn day. European Summertime has been that bad, that it makes our Australian Winter feel like a heatwave. Except for today maybe, where you guys should get wet…
To top that up, it is dead flat: Lake Atlantico !
So, I've been hanging out at the Gato Heroi shaping bay and glassing room instead. The boys' legendary savoir-faire have made their global top-notch reputation, and I wanted to witness this first hand in their ''Joy Factory'' in Bidart.
Tomorrow, we should get a little spike at low tide. 2 ft max. Nothing to get too excited about…
It was colourful, and then quickly pretty dull. I didn't regret the early swim, despite the cold sand and the chilly offshore winds. fun waves and fun skies.
My auto-focus played tricks on me this morning, and missed of couple of nice barrel shots from Joe Dirt. After 30min of swimming with the camera, I start to run out of spit to clear my glass. Anyway, the point is: if you're in the sweet spot, you could get barreled. Small ones, but to be added to your tube time.
We are doing some work in the background on the Frothers website and it means that next week there will be most likely be no Frothers up-dates. We will start again the week starting 18th August.
Have a great day !
Blue blue blue ! Winter is blue this year !
The water is definitely a little colder, and the mornings are chilly, but all you see in the sky is blue.
Mornings are getting a little longer already, that's noticeable, and with the 6:45am sunrise, the crowd is a touch larger than a month ago.
2 footers were on offer this morning. Clean, offshore and fun.
Now, to finish off, a piece of great news: the Frothers Family has just became bigger this morning, with the Malyon's N#2 ! Welcome to the World little buddy ! We're all stoked for you.
Have a great day !