I made my first trip to the North Shore when I was 30. Kind of late really, but putting my right foot forward on a surfboard made me long for the perfect walls of Ulu, Padang and Gland ever since my Mom took me to see the surf movie, Morning of The Earth when I was just 13 years old and that is where I spent my annual holidays each year from the time I left school and started working.
In a way I regret not starting to come to Hawaii earlier, because ‘The Islands’ have a special magic that grows on you. I’ve been so fortunate that my photography career has brought me to Hawaii each year for Triple Crown Events. This is my 20th trip and already I’m thinking (hoping) about coming back next year again.
The surf this year hasn’t been amazing. It’s had a couple of great moments and last weeks Pipe Masters swell was one of them. It amazes me how often they score it for the contest. Maybe they have access to some of that ‘Magic’.
The last week has seen quite a bit of rain and strong N-E trade winds. Terrible photo weather but the surf has been 3-4 feet most days and so much fun. My body is acing from 2 surfs a day on my new quad fin and I feel like I have a new lease on life right now. Surfing a lot in good waves can do that to you.
I will be home Sunday and it looks like we may be in for a little bit of N-E swell over the weekend, courtesy of that Cyclone that hammered Fiji earlier in the week. That will certainly make a nice little Xmas present for all of us ‘Frothers’!
I hope you enjoyed my updates from the North Shore. Take care this holiday season and on behalf of Christie, Brad, Franck and I we hope you have a wonderful Xmas and a very Happy New Year!
So I decided to make the clouds the star of this up-date.
One more sleep before most of us will have a few days off ! Barbie, surf, family gathering, red hats, the whole shebang ! Yew !
Evan is throwing some swell our way for the coming days…be ready !
Now, for the late one, it's not too late: go to the Frothers Gallery to find the perfect present. Between a great book, some small prints or a large frame, I'm sure you'll find the best present to put under the tree. 145c MacPherson Street, in Bronte.
That's is for 2012 for me. It was my first year with Frothers, and I hope the first of many. I would like to warmly thank the Frothers Team to have welcome me in the family the way they did it. Team Froth' !
Joyeux Noel et Bonne Annee a tous !
Well I can say that I have now been officially photo bummed. Yep the boys at Tamarama decided to drop the old dacks while I was trying to get a cool shot of them checking the surf! I reckon this one will go down as an old classic.
And what a classic start to the day it was. Not really any waves of quality to chat about this morning but it is definitely worth a swim that's for sure. Head to the east facing beaches like Bronte or Maroubra if you require a paddle – There you will find something to slide. 28 degrees today and the wind will pick up from the NE keeping in theme for this time of year.
My mate Mark Tipple from the "Underwater Project" needs your help! Watch this CLIP to find out more.
Don't forget – We still have plenty of items in our galllery that will be perfect for xmas presents. Framed prints, Acrylic blocks and John Ogdens book "Saltwater People" Open till 5pm today at 145 Macpherson St Bronte.
Check you later – Brad
Good morning Frothers. There is a straight East swell in the water which should put a little smile on your dial. It is hitting the 3 – 4ft mark and although the tide looked a little low both Tamarama and Maroubra had a few waves worthy of a paddle. The banks should hold up a little better with the incoming tide throughout the day. The only downer is that the wind is expected to swing right round to the east which isn't at all ideal.
Later in the week Fri/Sat you can expect some groundswell to arrive thanks to Cyclone Evan which has just passed through Fiji over night. The swell looks great at 11 sec periods, but locally we will have onshore SE winds messing it up. I know where I'll be heading!
Have you seen this great new beauty product that is out there on the market. Watch the video!
Back tomorrow! – Brad
The last World Championship Tour event of the season, The Pipeline Masters concluded last Friday in Hawaii. It wasn’t the best Pipeline I’ve seen for a Masters but it wasn’t the worst either, a solid 6 feet with the occasional 8 footer, fanned by a strong cross-off shore N-E trade wind. It wasn’t mean and ugly, more like – mean and occasional really good!
It had all the usual trademark excitement – big crowds, big wipeouts, some great tube rides and a showdown between two of surfing’s finest – Kelly Slater and Joel Parkinson. For me, watching Joel make his heats almost felt like watching a classic Andy Irons progression. Sharp, procession surfing, a level above the rest of the pack. Except of course for Slater who looked his usual, 'ridiculously amazing' self.
Fortunately for us Aussies, Joel prevailed. It looked like it was all coming down to the ultimate, a Slater/Parko final but Josh Kerr stopped Kelly in the 2nd semi and Parko surfed and won the final as the new world champ. It was a fairy tale ending for the tall, lanky, Gold Coast natural footer after previously coming 2nd in four world title challengers.
The swell has backed off once again since the completion of the contest but it has still been over head at some spots and packing plenty of grunt!
Most of the traveling pro’s have packed up their huge, coffin size board bags and bolted for the airport. Things are starting to feel a little more mellow, the lineup is looking a little less crowded and the queue at Starbucks isn’t lining up out the door anymore.
I have one more report to go from the Islands next Friday and then it’s back to Bondi and reality. In the mean time, I will try and squeeze the trigger on a few more images for you in between surfs.
See you then.