Update 21st June 2013

I think the endless barrels of Rifles are beginning to slowly get the better of me. Of course, scoring great waves isn't exactly out of the norm in this part of the world. However, you do need to acclimatize and modify your approach to riding a wave of such quality, like Setting your rail and keeping your line in the tube for long periods or high lining the long walls when needed to attain the speed to make the sections. It's not like wick wacking your way to shore at Bondi, that's for sure!

I was under the impression that there was only one surf camp up here on Kandui Island and I use the term 'camp' loosely. There are in fact two. There is the original 'Kandui Resort' and now, there is also 'Kandui Villas' where we are lucky enough to be staying this trip.

The founder of the original Kandui Resort saw the need to create something a little more special. A place where the traveling surfer could bring his partner, wife and/or family if wished, so he took his knowledge and experience from building Kandui Resort and created something better. If you would like to see and read more about why Kandui Villas is one of the worlds most luxurious surf resorts, click HERE and take a look.

Well, I've just finished my morning coffee and it's time to take a quick plunge into Western Sumatra's only Infinity pool, before I wax my 5'11' quad for another crazy session at the worlds best right hander.

I have a whole five days left in paradise and all I'm really praying for is that my body holds up enough for me to make it through the hectic pace that has so far been (gladley) forced upon it over this last few days. It's definitely been a while since I've surfed two long sessions a day in such perfect waves, without a break. All this old bloke can say is, thank god for anti inflammatories!


Up-date 20th June 2013

Let's do this in 2 parts: the swell and the photography.

1/ The swell: It back-off a notch, compared to the last days, making the wave a lot more friendly. Tama would be a challenge, but Bronte or Bondi may see some nice sets today. The wind is not as strong as expected, which is a good thing for those who'd like to give it a crack today.

2/ Photography: right now, it's tough to shoot those mornings. Late sunrises make it difficult to stay too long at the beach for me. In 1 hour, it should be ''door-to-newsletter. So, to mix it up with the usual, I decided not to change the settings of the camera today. Slow shutter speed all the way. Why ? First, I like it. Second, it's a perfect day for it, as the light was low. Then, it makes this work look like a serie, which is what I'd like to do more. Finally, because I don't change settings, it makes it easier for me to be quick(er).

I hope you guys like the result.

I wish you all a nice day. Tomorrow is Bill's tropical up-date…A bit of warmth in our Winter lives.



PS: if you can, watch the Bali Pro. This even is due to be a cracker, judging from JJF or KS's recent heats…

Up-date 19th June 2013

G’day !

8 degrees, rain, empty beaches, threatening clouds and big-lumpy-chunky-choppy waves.

Tough to shoot today: late sunrise, wind, rain…but just like the few runners I’ve seen, we’re committed !

Tomorrow is the universal winter for the South Hemisphere…and we’re right in it today.

BUT, you could have Bondi to yourself today…a rare commodity in 2013 !

As the swell drops, towards the end of the week, conditions my improve wave-wise…but you might want to chase the South protected corner: wind is gonna be the good-surf’s worst enemy. I am sure Billy is happy where he is right now, not missing home for one second !

Cheers !

Updated 18th June 2013

If your a surfer, then you know that The Mentawaii Islands are right up there at the top of the list for wave riding destinations. It's crazy how many perfect waves there  are, all crammed into to a 4000 square kilometers chain of around 70 individual islands that are situated off the south west coast of Sumatra, Indonesia.

Over the last 20 years, I have been fortunate to sample many of the amazing setups throughout the 70 odd islands which make up The Mentawaii's. Personally, I think the best concentration of reefs lie in an area of small islands known as 'The Playgrounds',  which are situated off the southern tip of a larger island, Siberut. In this group is the Island of Kandui. This small round island has always been my favorite , mainly due to the long, hollow, grinding left called No Kandui that peels like a runaway freight train down it's northern side. But the Island is probably better known for the long right that runs down the other side – Rifles, which is arguably THE best wave in the world.

Kandui Villas will be our home for the next week or so and if you like quality in your surf trips, I suggest you put this one on your future hit list. As far as land camps go up here, it's top notch! Click HERE to read more. It has only been small so far but I've already locked in 3 good surfs and definitely feel like I'm in front already.

This is not a photo assignment for me this time. It's a surf trip with some friends so I wont be shooting my normal volume of images but will endeavor to bring you a glimpse of what goes down all the same.

Enjoy your 3/2 sealed. I'll be back to join you soon enough. But for now, I'm breaking into a sweat  in 29 degree water wearing a just a pair of boardies.


Up-date 17th June 2013

Sorry for the late one. You can thank Mrs. Technology…

Anyway, given how spectacular the Ocean was yesterday/today, I decided not to give up and bring you a snapshot (snapshots) of this morning.

It was a really quick session, so I did not really capture what the few brave souls in Bronte must've surfed. As you can see, it was big, mean, shifty and the current VERY strong. Therefore, they had to choose very carefully before paddling on one…and I had to go.

Nonetheless, the sun came out, and the scenery was beautiful…but gee: 8 degrees !!! In the Australian standards 8 degrees is the temperature when water become ice ! Shooting out there felt like queueing for the ski lifts ! I almost envied the boys who were paddling (almost !).

Congrats to Messy Jessieee who won the photocomp' organized by Brad Malyon and Carves sunnies ! To find out more, and if you also want to win some sunnies, hook yourself up with @bradmalyon on Instagram.

Have a nice evening.