What a unique sunrise today. Between the stormy clouds, the rain, the big round sun, the red hues…it's been pretty weird but quite pretty too.
Waves are on the improve, big time. The South corner was firing as the rain forced me to surrender. It actually smoothed things out, and the 3 ft peelers were looking pretty fast and fun. The lefts were short, but you could occasionally score one there.
Between the South corner, and the center of the beach, it's close-out central. I wouldn't bother to be honest. And then, the bank in front of the Tower could give you the chance for a cool little ride on a right, from time to time. The lefts were very unpredictable.
Not sure if you guys followed what happened yesterday a little further North, where la creme de la creme of surfing is back to the office, but John John got booted in round 2 ! That's a big news. He might regret this one at the end of the season, just like Kelly knew that his poor performance in Europe cost him last year's title. Jordy is also out: who would have said ?…
Have a great day.
Franck
insta: @franckgazzola
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