It's a grey morning, but it should not last long. The surf is still quite decent and the blue of the sky is scrapping through already.

I'll give you that it's not the kind of day when you say ''oh my God ! Sorry darling, I know I said I'd stay for brekki, but I have to go'' to sneak out the back door and get down to the beach…but in fact it's not that bad: it's not too cool, there is not wind, and the swell is still hitting the 3ft mark. As we'd say in French: ''Y a des bouts !''

I can't wait for the days to start earlier and have more time at the beach when I shoot…It's so frustrating to leave you guys whilst you're still rippin' !

Have fun today folks !

Franck