I was expecting complete kaos this morning. Instead the ocean was calm and cleanly brushed by a light westerly. It must be the calm before the storm.
The rain has stopped for the moment but the sky is still dark and threatening. Deep puddles line the streets and walkways at the beach, reflecting movement against the gloomy clouds. Shapes of people – surfers, walkers, runners flash past where I stand watching the surf. Its still raining out at sea.
Bondi was again a little disjointed on the high tide with a wobbly 4 foot left peeling into the south corner. A dozen or so surfers were making the most of a cleaner right-hander breaking opposite the lifeguard tower in the middle of the beach. It looked the best option.
The swell is dead east, so I dashed over to Maroubra to snap a few quick ones before opening the gallery at 10am. It was a little full but clean and touch bigger than Bondi. The Bra loves this direction swell and with the dropping tide its my tip for a lunch time surf, if you're keen to get wet.
There is still a buzz in the air about the crazy Teahupoo session that went down a few weeks ago. If you wish to see the wave that will probably take out this years Biggest Tube Award. Check out this crazy interview of madman – Nathan Fletcher. He definitely has a screw loose!
Have a great day. Watch out for that wind!