After a few amazingly clear and sunny days at the end of last week, the last couple have moved back into, what has been, our usual mixed bag of cloud, some rain and sunny breaks. It must have rained a fair bit early this morning before first light, as the roads were glistening and wet when I arrived at the beach at 6:30 am.
The swell is still struggling around the 2 foot mark and the light onshore wind is making the surf a little mushy and hard to ride, especially if you are 80 plus kilo’s and like to ride a regular short board. There were still a few of you out there this morning struggling, while trying to link a bumpy ride through to the beach. Those lightweight groms were all ripping like it was twice the size! If only you could shrink yourself on these small days.
I came across this video of some very adventurous lightweights, dicing with some pretty heavy storm surf conditions. It makes the rail hang at Bronte or Bondi baths look kind of tame in comparison.
See you tomorrow, with hopefully some better news on surf… But don’t hold your breath. The forecast looks ordinary.
Billy
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