I don’t know what has gotten in to me lately. I’m surfing more and putting those things that I really need to do on the back burner, while I jump in the car and chase waves. It feels like I’m re-living my youth and my age is just a number which is currently unlisted. I think I will put my phone on silent to make sure I don't break the spell.
The ‘Day Trip’ is a wonderful thing. You can fly to Indo, Fiji or Hawaii and usually score amazing waves but it takes a little planning. The day trip, however, can be conceived and actioned in just a few minutes. No packing and travel agents, visas or injections. Just a car full of fuel, some boards on the roof and a few friends are all you need for a great time. It’s a mini holiday right there and then!
That beautiful east swell we just had caused me to take another one of those mini holidays to the Central Coast last Tuesday. Charismatic WCT surfer, Matt Wilkinson was on board this time, along with fellow born and bread Central Coast surfers, Damien Wills and Glenn ‘Micro’ Hall. We found some great, uncrowded little lefts to surf all day and for 4 frothing goofy footers, we couldn’t have asked for more!
Life is good!