One in all in

The never ending swell run we have been blessed with lately has finally lost its bang. It was bound to happen sooner or later and even though all the accomplished surfers will be left feeling a little let down, the mediocre and the beginners amongst us are stoked again and boy, were they all out there in force this morning.

The Bondi lineup at sunrise was hectic with many waves having at least half a dozen riders. What can you do? Its part of surfing Australiaís most famous beach these days and you just have to roll with it, share and be stoked you are out there being a part of it.

We had this cool vimeo sent to us by one of our  friends, Johnny McKelvey. It ís made by Simon Lister. A super talented and creative sound and film guy who lives locally. It's about the creation and journey of a surfboard shaped by Joel Fitzgerald, son of legendary 70's surfer and shaper of Hot Buttered Surfboards, Terry Fitzgerald. It has that mixed retro and soul feel but also modern at the same time. It's a nice clip, quite cruisy and worth a look. Click HERE.

Have a great weekend everyone!

Billy 

Update 17th May 2012

It's on again today. Thanks to a light west wind, the everlasting swell is probably the cleanest it has been all week. Wave size has backed off just enough, at about 3-4ft, for Bondi to be surf-able again. And couldn't you tell that the fun has been spread amongst the beaches. At 8am Bronte had a crowd of only 20 or so in the line up, compared to the last few days with 40 – 50 competing for a slice of the action.

The sand at Bondi seems to be a little straight, meaning it is breaking really fast. Occasionally one would stand up nicely and peel left or right. Seek and you will find! On the drive home Bronte still looked pretty good as well, so there are a few options out there today for you all. 

I haven't stopped dreaming of my recent Maldivian escape and my imaginings of the warm waters and clean waves have been boosted by a fun video clip put together by some of the boys from our trip. They are a talented creative bunch and their footage will take you away from your office for a few tropical minutes. View it here.

Enjoy! Brad.

Update 16th May 2012

With the swell still up out of the south, at around the 4 – 5ft mark, and the sun shining, aiming for a top temp of 20, you should try and get in today. Once again I found myself at Bronte this morning where it was a bit fat and wonkie. However, if you were in the right spot at the right time you could have scored yourself a nice little slab for breakfast – just like Bronte grom Ethan Davis did.

It was an entertaining shoot this morning as I was kept very amused by some of the funniest stacks I've seen in a while. The painful realization was clear on the poor guys' faces that they had wasted a great wave, one that they'd battled so hard to get. Ah well, better luck next time guys! Keep your chin up, as it happens to all of us. Check this out.

Tomorrow and Friday are looking the goods with the same conditions but the swell will back off slightly. It's a good chance to redeem yourselves fellas!

Cheers – Brad

Update 15th May 2012

I know I keep saying it, but how good is this time of year! It’s absolutely pumping again! I’m going crazy sitting here in front of the computer, trying to get this out to you guys while my new 6’2’’ is screaming at me “hurry up you fool, it could go onshore at any moment!!!”.

If you are looking for a wave, there are plenty available. Bronte is probably the spot around here with some nice solid 6 foot wedging peaks behind the reef. You may have to risk a jump off the baths to get out there though, as there aren’t many breaks in the sets. The Bra is your other option with a few hollow rights in the middle and a fair bit smaller and manageable.

You may have already seen this on the news – Hawaii’s Garrett McNamara has won the Billabong XXL Biggest Wave Award for a wave ridden off Portugal. Size varies according to who you talk to with some saying 78 feet, while others say 90. Personally, I think it’s a fat burger of a wave and nothing on what he or others have ridden previously at Jaws in Maui, which is a ‘real’ wave! Still, you wouldn’t catch me out there. Click HERE for a look.

Billy
 

Update 14th May 2012

Most Eastern Beaches' surfers would have known there was going to be a delivery of Big Macs this morning – cold chilly ones out of the south. On sunrise the swell was manageable with a few guys scoring some nice rides but within an hour it picked up making the rock jump scary and dangerous, while sending broken boards and battered souls back to the beach. It is solid and not for the faint hearted today. I saw some 6 to 8 footers at Bronte. 

The swell will peak this afternoon and will slowly fall away leaving us with fun sized waves for the rest of the week. Hope you have some good rubber because that SW wind is fresh and will be lurking for the rest of the week. 

This morning's conditions were in stark contrast to what I became happily used to over in the Maldives. Even though I had to leave the perfect weather and waves behind, I'm glad to be back at home and once again sharing the local froth!

We must be close to that first dumping of snow down on the snow fields. STM at Bondi Junction has everything you need from rental gear to the top end stuff for those quick weekends away in the white powdery stuff. 

Stay warm – Brad.