Only one ! Only one surfer on the water this morning, and a brave one !
The forecasted swell is here. It's big, powerful, but it's rough, wobbly, closing out. White water is everywhere, and patches of the beach in Bronte occasionally disappeared completely under the water.
In this crazy mess, one with balls ! He paddled out, and before I could even move to get to a vantage point, he had taken a wave, bringing him straight back to the shore. He walked back towards the South end of the beach, to jump off the swimming pool to go for a second one ! If I had made it alive on the first one, I think I would have gone to the coffee joint and celebrate….but this lone wolf went back. After several minutes spent trying to find the right moment, he finally dived into this massive turmoil of white water, caught a second wave, with a bit of opened face, and he was out, running up the stairs…just like this…easy !
If you want to catch waves today, you'll have to go for the protected corners, or the East facing beaches.
Tomorrow should be a bit more accessible wave-wise, despite the return of the rain, as the size is going to be dropping a bit.
Have a nice day !
Franck
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