Brads Images for Gallery
erqgrg
Update 6th July 2012
Domestic school holiday vacations have been rare for me over the last decade. I have been avoiding visiting my Mother-in-Law in Port Douglas, in Far North Queensland, when rest of my tribe have taken off without me. It's not that I don’t get on with my wife’s mother, in fact, quite the opposite. It’s just that (I thought) there were NO WAVES up there!
While Sydney is suffering it’s coldest day’s so far this winter, I have been cruising around The Daintree and the crocodile farms wearing just boardies and a tee. I'm not exactly missing the chill factor at home right now.
The one thing that has really surprised me, is that I found 'a rideable' wave up here. It’s not Hawaii but it’s 26c in and surprisingly surfable! I've been having a ball riding a 12 foot stand up paddle board (without a paddle) in the one foot wind swell. There is actually a spot down the beach where you can get a one hundred meter ride! I even caught a few tandem waves with my teenage daughter, Olivia and that, for me, was very special. My surfing withdrawal has been temporarily cured!
Keep warm boys and girls. Enjoy your heaters and your 3/2 full suits. Hopefully I will bring you another report from cane toad territory next week before I come home.
Have a great weekend!
Billy
Update 5th July 2012
Your wetsuit is getting bored and your boards feel lonely…I know.
You'll have to tell them to be patient, as the swell is rogue, and the wind is still strong. Dialog is key. Give them the facts, and they'll understand…
Tell them that they'll get wet during the week end for sure. Go down to the garage tomorrow morning and screw the fins onto your board to be ready for Saturday. Your baby will understand that some action is just 'round the corner.
While gently sliding the fins on the plug, whisper in its ears that Saturday should be 3 to 4 ft, with lighter winds, shifting gradually, ending up offshore on Sunday.
But be honest to them, and tell them not to expect much of today. I know they scream for salty water, desperately…but be strong !
At least this week has been good to catch up on sleep !
Have nice day !
Franck
Update 4th July 2012
Only one ! Only one surfer on the water this morning, and a brave one !
The forecasted swell is here. It's big, powerful, but it's rough, wobbly, closing out. White water is everywhere, and patches of the beach in Bronte occasionally disappeared completely under the water.
In this crazy mess, one with balls ! He paddled out, and before I could even move to get to a vantage point, he had taken a wave, bringing him straight back to the shore. He walked back towards the South end of the beach, to jump off the swimming pool to go for a second one ! If I had made it alive on the first one, I think I would have gone to the coffee joint and celebrate….but this lone wolf went back. After several minutes spent trying to find the right moment, he finally dived into this massive turmoil of white water, caught a second wave, with a bit of opened face, and he was out, running up the stairs…just like this…easy !
If you want to catch waves today, you'll have to go for the protected corners, or the East facing beaches.
Tomorrow should be a bit more accessible wave-wise, despite the return of the rain, as the size is going to be dropping a bit.
Have a nice day !
Franck
Update 3rd July 2012
At Bronte, as I was packing up my camera gear and about to head to Bondi, I noticed a pod of dolphins lurking and waiting for a set wave. Sure enough – they scored the wave of the day putting all the others in the water to shame. Just like everyone else you could tell that they were stoked there was a few waves around.
We have a new round of south swell pounding our beaches. Bronte is 3 ft and Bondi a little bigger on the sets. Both beaches have some good rides but I have to say Bondi was the pick of the two. The south corner in particular was showing some potential although there was some wobble on the wave face evident. It should build through the day and tomorrow you might need your step up board.
Guys – If you need a cool present for your Mrs then check out www.skyparlour.com.au – So much easier than heading up to Bondi Junkyard and looking for a car park. Order online and be done with it!
Rug up! – Brad
Recent Comments