Surfing is one of those activities that either becomes addictive straight away or you try it, get disheartened by its difficulty and move on to something else.
Riding a wave is one of the hardest things to learn and if you didn’t start young you will need a lot of determination to just catch a one foot wave, get to your feet and stay there for a while.
You can pick up skiing or snowboarding in a day but the mountain doesn’t move like a wave does and that’s the whole point of attraction right there – riding a moving lump of oscillating liquid energy. It’s a buzz!
Bondi was L plate heaven this morning and there was no shortage of keen beginners trying their hardest to crack one to the beach. Amongst the drop-ins and nose dives, there were some great long rides by people who were clearly struggling to just stay upright. Those same people would be at the office right now, still buzzing from the rush of riding a wave.
If you want to see surfing in perspective and take in the extreme, Tim Bonython is having one last showing of his award winning surfing movie ‘Immersion’ presented by Frothers at The Randwick Ritz this Sunday 4pm. It’s the best surf movie I’ve seen and I’ve seen them all. Click HERE to book.
Billy
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