I made my first trip to the North Shore when I was 30. Kind of late really, but putting my right foot forward on a surfboard made me long for the perfect walls of Ulu, Padang and Gland ever since my Mom took me to see the surf movie, Morning of The Earth when I was just 13 years old and that is where I spent my annual holidays each year from the time I left school and started working.
In a way I regret not starting to come to Hawaii earlier, because ‘The Islands’ have a special magic that grows on you. I’ve been so fortunate that my photography career has brought me to Hawaii each year for Triple Crown Events. This is my 20th trip and already I’m thinking (hoping) about coming back next year again.
The surf this year hasn’t been amazing. It’s had a couple of great moments and last weeks Pipe Masters swell was one of them. It amazes me how often they score it for the contest. Maybe they have access to some of that ‘Magic’.
The last week has seen quite a bit of rain and strong N-E trade winds. Terrible photo weather but the surf has been 3-4 feet most days and so much fun. My body is acing from 2 surfs a day on my new quad fin and I feel like I have a new lease on life right now. Surfing a lot in good waves can do that to you.
I will be home Sunday and it looks like we may be in for a little bit of N-E swell over the weekend, courtesy of that Cyclone that hammered Fiji earlier in the week. That will certainly make a nice little Xmas present for all of us ‘Frothers’!
I hope you enjoyed my updates from the North Shore. Take care this holiday season and on behalf of Christie, Brad, Franck and I we hope you have a wonderful Xmas and a very Happy New Year!