Legendary Hawaiian surfer, Duke Kahanamoku once said “Aloha, which means love, is the key word to the universal spirit of real hospitality”. The majority of Hawaiians I’ve met over the years are truly beautiful people who display this philosophy all the time.
December in Hawaii, however, is crowded and as you know the Aloha spirit shown by all races tends to disappear quite quickly once the stress of a packed lineup takes hold. After all, we are all only human. Surprisingly, from what I have seen and heard this year, things have been relatively mellow. I think as a whole, most of us wish share that spirit of “Aloha” with our fellow man, even if we do occasionally divert from the path.
Since my last report from the North Shore the waves have been small, around the 2-3 foot mark, but the power of even a small swell here compared to the same size as home, always blows me away.
The Pipe Masters should be back on tomorrow as a new WNW swell fills in during the day. Stay turned online or Fuel TV for all the action of the Parko/Slater world title show down. Go Parko!
I found this really cool feature on the mechanics of how and why Pipeline breaks the way it does. If you’re a surfer, you will find this really interesting. Click HERE.
Don’t forget, Frothers have some great ideas for Xmas. Pop online or into our Bronte Gallery and check us out in real time! 145c Macpherson St, Bronte.
Have a great weekend.
Summer seems to be back in town! After a few day of gloom and grey, kitesurfers have folded the kites and the surfers are ruling the spot again !
It's clean.Waist high in Bondi, a little bigger in Bronte. Plenty of fun to have on such a warm and sunny day.
It's almost Christmas, and I still can't get used to the idea: this is my second Chrissi in Oz', and I still expect the snow to fall outside whilst wrapping up the gifts…It's still a weird feeling to be wearing shorts and look at the calendar saying ''December''. Not complainin'…just sayin' !
One thing I know for sure is that Christie, at the Frothers' gallery will help you out to choose the perfect Xmas present, for someone you love or for Kris Kringle ! 145MacPherson Street in Bronte.
The wind has eased and Bondi is almost back to its best. Is it something to do with the significance of todays date 12/12/12? They say it is a day of spiritual awakening.
This could be true because I had my first out of body experience at about 5 am as I donned the lycra for the very first time. But for me it was like I had been there before. I am born to ride! I am taking up Triathlons. Seems to be all the rage at 35yrs of age. Watch out Spot and Reidy here I come!
Enough of my jibber – The waves are hitting the 2 ft mark and still has a fair bit of wobble in it. South Bondi seemed to be the GO where there was a little left and right shorey happening.
We're open in the gallery today – 145c Macpherson St Bronte or buy online HERE Xmas is less than two weeks away!
I hope you find yourself today – Brad
Ok so it's not the best out there! But did you see the sunrise? That was enough to get my froth on for the day!
There is not much to report on wave wise. A couple of guys gave Bronte reef a go. Occasionally one came through with a little bit of form but it mostly looked like my cats breakfast! Sloppy and mushy.
How good has the Billabong Pro been? Can't wait for the next round of swell to hit. GO PARKO and GO BILL MORRIS. Billy is over there catching all the action for us and has been swimming some solid PIPE.
"Saltwater People – Sydney's Southern Beaches" is available in our gallery and also online on our website HERE It really is a perfect christmas present that dives right into the history of our local beaches.
Keep warm frothers – Brad
The Hawaiian Islands are just the tips of large volcanoes jutting out of the middle of the North Pacific. They are open to deep water swell from all directions, including Tsunami’s. There are 8 main Islands that make up Hawaii – Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, Kahoolawe, Lanai, Molokai, Kauai and Niihauin. They are part of an archipelago of over 130 volcanic rock outcrops.
Ok, now that the geography lesson is over we can get on with what’s been happening on the ‘Rock’ I’m on right now – Oahu, where the waves have been a fun 3-4 foot (practically flat for Hawaii) for the past few days.
Things change quick here in the Islands and the rumbling of a new swell is never too far away. Yesterday morning revealed the best swell so far this season, thick 6-8 foot lines of thick west swell marched into Pipeline for the opening day of The Billabong Pipeline Masters.
The Pipe Masters is run a little different to the normal contest format. There is no looses round and two ‘man on man’ heats are run at the same time, which means there are 4 guys sharing the lineup.
Quite a few big names were knocked out today including Bruce Irons beaten by an in form Sunset winner, Adam Melling. The main ‘showdown’ between front runner, Joel Parkinson and Kelly Slater is still in limbo, until there heats are run tomorrow. With the swell possibly bigger, we could be in for an amazing day.
See you on Friday for a further update from Hawaii.