Update 7th December 2012

It has been a mello (pun) and mediocre start to my shorter than usual Hawaiian campaign this year. You will be hearing from me from over here for the next couple of Monday and Friday’s before Xmas arrives.

I landed on ‘The Rock’ 3 days ago and just missed the best session at Pipe and OTW so far this season by a mere hour or two. Oh well, you get that. It’s all about timing over here. Like the powerful swells, the wind and cloud move in so fast on these Islands. One minute it’s the clearest most beautiful day, the next you’re cowering under an umbrella getting hammered!

I did get to see my good friend and Oakley team rider, Adam Melling take out The Vans World Cup of Surfing at Sunset Beach the day I arrived. Needing to get at least 2nd in the contest to re-qualify for the WCT again, the pressure was well and truly on Mello and with only a couple of minutes to go in the final he was in 3rd place and looking like missing out by the cruelest of margins, but somehow he found a wave and without holding back, tore the thing apart for a well deserved 9.4 and the highest heat score of the event, an 18.4. Re-qualified for the tour once again on the death, like he often does. Legend stuff Adam.

Well, it should be bombing for the start of The Pipeline Masters on the weekend so hopefully I will have some bigger action for you next update. It’s only small here today, 3 feet but with the power of maybe a 5 foot wave at home. I’m going to get wet in the 26 degree water and test out a new 5’11’ 4 fin. It’s a tough job but as they say, someone has to do it.

Aloha

Billy
 

Up-date 6th December 2012

…and you’re not bringing me down !

Surf’s on ! And Bronte is the pick of the day, from what I could see this morning. But hurry…with more water and more wind, it could be a different story altogether. There was a wave for everyone, short or longboards, lefts and rights, big(ish) or small. Bronte is this morning’s best bet.

Given today’s set-up, Maroubra must be fun as well, but I cannot actually testify for sure.

Bondi is looks like a Chinese wave pool: it’s overpopulated ! However, if you choose carefully, you can find an opened shoulder. But it’s often a gamble: ‘’closing-out ?…opened shoulder ?…closing-out ? BAM !! Closing-out ! Damn ! Now let’s paddle back to where my 200 surf buddies are…’’

IF YOUR BOSS IS RELOCATING YOU TO ALICE SPRINGS, YOU'D BETTER GET YOUR FROTHERS' PICTURE ORDER IN BEFORE 9th DECEMBER.

Have a fun day !
Franck
 

Update 5th December 2012

Just a quick and easy one for you this morning. Got to run.

The sun is out, the water has warmed up and there are some little waves about. No matter what you do today make sure you jump in the ocean. It will give you that warm fuzzy feeling! 

The BRONTE BIATHLON SERIES that is run by our mates at Eastside Crew starts tomorrow night and runs for the rest of the summer. A great way to get fit! Meet at the surf club at 6.15pm. The swim is at Clovelly so no need to worry about swimming in the surf or bringing your flippers! 

Enjoy the sunshine! – Brad

Up-date 4th December 2012

If yesterday, you were doubting that we were in Summer…today your doubts should have disappeared !

It’s almost perfect. Almost.

Another foot of swell (or two) and the picture would have been totally perfect. Now, you can find some glide today on the South exposed beaches…but only if you are keen, if you have a log or if you weigh less than 50kg, like little Max from Bronte who scored quite a few chest high sets (contact Christie on 0451 181 191 at the Frothers’ Gallery: I have some shots of you !).

For the more selective kind of surfers, well…keep your eyes on the forecast: it looks like Thursday might be your perfect Summer day with 4ft South swell, sun, warmth, light off-shore winds…and hopefully a few cute bikinis on the beach to admire your best tricks ! Mark my words: Thursday !

Otherwise, you can enjoy a bit of Vitamin D whilst taking pics of this sunny day, like amateur-Sam or serious enthusiast-Adam, that I met at the beach this morning.

IF YOU LOVE YOUR WIFE OR IF YOU'VE CHEATED ON HER THIS YEAR, THE LEAST YOU CAN DO IS TO GET HER A FROTHERS' PICTURE FOR CHRISTMAS. ORDER IT BEFORE DECEMBER 9th. 😉

Frothers Gallery, 145 MacPherson Street in Bronte or on-line on www.frothers.com.au .
 

Enjoy today

Franck