Today was longboard day. Even better (or worse, depending on how you look at things): it was hipster longboard day. Big logs, tattoos, no leggies, single fins, waxed heads.
Justin, from Foam Symmetry (the best surf magazine to my opinion) made my day yesterday: ''hey mate, coming down with Matt Chojnacki, Jake Bevan, Makala Smith in Oz for a few weeks from Cali and Pat Capocci''.
All amazing riders. I was frothing.
It was tough to choose 7 shots. I tried to give you a flavour of the morning, but there is a lot more. A lot of waves got surfer, a lot of toes touched the nose, a lot of knees got dropped and a lot of turns were carved.
Perfect day outside. Leave work early !
Cheers !
Franck
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