I am now in Chile, and drove down to the coast straight away, to Pichilemu.
Those of you who follow the Big Wave comps would know, or at least would have heard about the place. The place can hold big surf. I mean BIG !!
The Chilean coast line is as pretty as it is hostile: cold water, cliffs, rocks, strong currents, seaweed (XXL format)…but wild and raw. And, like the whole of South America, the place is Goofy’s paradise! Only lefts, wherever you look.
If you’d wake up at 5:30am for a surf here, you’d be the first one for sure. You’d actually be surfing in the dark. I mean pitch black. The sun only rises here at about 8:30am. Perfect for me this morning: I could sleep in to recover from the jetlag of an express trip around the world, and catch the first surfers paddling out!
All those shots were taken at Punta de Lobos (Point of the Seals – haven’t seen any though): an amazing left. Long. Looooong.
The charts are forecasting a pretty decent sized swell…Let’s see if the forecast is more reliable in this part of the World. I’ll keep you posted soon !
For more of my adventures on instagram: @franckgazzola