by Franck Gazzola | May 15, 2013 | Daily Updates
I had to stupidly knock on the dashboard (…as if it'd help) to make sure I was not dreaming: 9 degrees ! Single digit again…
This morning has been a nice one, cloudless but crisp, contrasting with the warmth of the water. After a week in Fiji, I can tell you that I looked like I was going skiing while shooting this update !! I think I just scored myself the man-flue…
Wave-wise, it was small (knee to waist high, with some odd ones to the shoulders), clean and fun. They might not be big, but there are plenty of them, fairly consistent.
Get the Mal, or the fish out: it's the perfect day for those rides. Nothing like what just happened in Teahupoo: have you seen Koa Rothman's ride ?!!
Have a great day. Enjoy this winter sun, and think about poor old Europe who has not had a Spring yet, battling through an infinite number low pressure systems. Our winter seems to be better than their Spring, ten times over.
Cheers,
Franck
by Franck Gazzola | May 14, 2013 | Daily Updates
The pace has dropped back a couple of notches. The swell has backed right off and the usual hustle and bustle in the water at Bondi just wasn't there this morning. Probably something to do with the weather right? It was dark for a very long time!
So, I slowed my camera right down to match the mood taking advantage of the low light, lack of sunshine and knee high waves. I hit the shorey at South end with a couple of good blokes on longboards named Joe and Jarred. They had the small shorey peak all to themselves and were just stoked on being out there!
The water is sensational. It's still got to be up around 21 degrees I say! It looks like the sun is coming out too!
Enjoy the day! – Brad
by Franck Gazzola | May 13, 2013 | Daily Updates
Well, I hope all the Mum’s out there had a wonderful Mother’s Day yesterday. Next stop is Dad’s Day and I just want to put in my order now. I DON’T want socks and undies, all I need for Fathers Day this year are some good waves. Now that’s not being too greedy, is it?
Not much in the way of surf today with only a tiny, disjointed east swell filtering into our beaches. Maroubra is probably the call if you want a wave on your short board. Bondi is a little smaller and weaker but perfect for something a little longer and thicker.
Whatever you choose to ride, have a great week enjoying it!
Billy
by Franck Gazzola | May 10, 2013 | Daily Updates
You can’t really whine about a beautiful sunny Friday morning, especially if there are hardly any waves around. Tiny waves, why would you be happy about that? Well, it’s because they are exactly the perfect conditions the crew from ‘One Wave’ need.
Every Friday morning this happy bunch of humans get together before work to have a surf in the name of suicide prevention and mental health. Their aim is to give people who are having trouble, that magic feeling of what riding just ‘One Wave’ will do!
As most of us who surf know, even if we take it for granted most of the time, just going for a paddle and catching a few waves is all we usually need to relieve the stress of every day life. Surfing removes the negatives and shifts our thoughts into a better frame of mind.
Hats off ‘OneWave’, you guys rock!
Like their Facebook page HERE.
Have a great weekend people.
Billy
by Franck Gazzola | May 9, 2013 | Daily Updates
It’s been a crazy couple of days in Namotu ! The forecasted swell came through, and gave us some spectacular moments of surfing.
In moments like these, it’s not only Namotu guests that get excited, but the entire surfing planet. A few big wave riders flew in just for today’s waves: Dane Ross, Chris Lougher from the Northern Beaches, or even Kohl Christensen.
Restaurant was firing yesterday night in what Hawaiians would call 3 to 4 ft (reality is 2 overhead). Today, Cloudbreak was pumping, before the wind kind of crashed the party…but not for the pro-kiters who had a go at it. And from what I heard, they scored massive barrels, hands up in the sky to touch the curtain (wishful thinking in this size, as you can imagine…).
Lefts saw a few brave souls being towed in. Even Swimming Pool, the mellow right of the island, normally so much smaller than the rest of the breaks, looked like a mini-Teahupoo this morning. So thick and slabby, it was mad !!
From tomorrow onwards, the swell is dropping a notch so that ‘’normal people’’ can get back in the water. Let’s see…
Last report from paradise. See you soon back home.
Franck
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